Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Esbit stove update
Since the last post, I've had a chance to test this stove once more. It did indeed take quite a few seconds of exposure to my lighter for the fuel to catch. Once it did, it worked as advertised. There was no smoke and it was odor-less. For about 13 minutes the fuel continued to produce a flame and brought 2 cups of water to a boil. It takes Ramen Noodles three minutes to fully cook and that is exactly what the fuel tablet lasted for. If all you need is to boil water these little stoves are cheap, light, and functional. Forget about any lengthy cooking.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Wickersham Dome Attempt One and Stove Review
Today was my first walk on Summit Trail which leads to Wickersham Dome. There isn't much that can be said. I've tried to do the scenery justice with pictures, but I don't think I've come close. For the most part the trail is very easy to follow. Where it blends some there are rock piles or tri-pods marking the correct direction. Pretty much the entire trail consists of mud up to the first hilltop. There was a bone on one of the drier sections. After that snow started to gradually appear in greater quantities. Once it got knee high I fought with it a bit, but I was wearing thin pants and my legs and feet were freezing. Unfortunately my ski pants were not with me or I may have continued. In about a month I'll make another attempt. By then the mud should be dry and the snow should be gone.
When I reached the first hilltop I decided to have lunch. It was a comfortable spot with rocks that sort of made a seat facing the hills and mountains in the distance.
Recently I decided to try out an Esbit stove. It was quite windy and neither my lighter nor my fire starter were able to light the fuel tablet. After about five minutes I decided to go to my trust worthy MSR PocketRocket. One strike of the fire starter and I was in business. In short I think the Esbit fuel may take a little to get started. Granted with a little more patience and better wind protection the fuel tablet may have started, but that is already a huge point against it compared to the MSR stove. Where Esbit stoves win are in weight, price, and waste. MSR's PocketRocket costs about $40 compared to about $10 for an Esbit stove with 6 fuel tablets. For extended outdoor stays it may not be as bad to have the MSR stove but for an overnighter a can of isopro is overkill. They appear massive compared to the tiny Esbit tabs. Then there is waste. The only waste from the Esbit fuel is the blister packing. With MSR you have that pesky can. I'll give it another try in the future to be fair but for now my MSR stove continues to come with me because despite Esbit being better for ultralight packing, at least my MSR stove turns on.
When I reached the first hilltop I decided to have lunch. It was a comfortable spot with rocks that sort of made a seat facing the hills and mountains in the distance.
Recently I decided to try out an Esbit stove. It was quite windy and neither my lighter nor my fire starter were able to light the fuel tablet. After about five minutes I decided to go to my trust worthy MSR PocketRocket. One strike of the fire starter and I was in business. In short I think the Esbit fuel may take a little to get started. Granted with a little more patience and better wind protection the fuel tablet may have started, but that is already a huge point against it compared to the MSR stove. Where Esbit stoves win are in weight, price, and waste. MSR's PocketRocket costs about $40 compared to about $10 for an Esbit stove with 6 fuel tablets. For extended outdoor stays it may not be as bad to have the MSR stove but for an overnighter a can of isopro is overkill. They appear massive compared to the tiny Esbit tabs. Then there is waste. The only waste from the Esbit fuel is the blister packing. With MSR you have that pesky can. I'll give it another try in the future to be fair but for now my MSR stove continues to come with me because despite Esbit being better for ultralight packing, at least my MSR stove turns on.
Creamer's field and Beaver Sports
It's been a while since the last update. Believe me it's not from lack of material. If you like the outdoors Alaska is pretty much non-stop. Especially, it seems, if you don't let winter coop you up.
Recently I had the opportunity to spend a day at Creamer's Field, which is about two miles from where I'm staying in Fairbanks. Many of the migratory birds which stop there, including geese and swans, have arrived. Their website, linked above, keeps a count of the birds currently residing there. There is already plenty of documentation explaining the story of the viewing grounds so I will not get into that here. If you'd like to read more about it's history you can check this wiki page.
Most of the trails here range from less than a mile to close to two miles. It takes less than a day to walk them all should you choose to do so. Things are still in that transitional period between winter and spring where the colors aren't there yet and everything is muddy from the melting snow. According to the brochure this is when the wetlands and lakes there are created. Permafrost prevents the earth from absorbing all of the water creating these bodies of water. As the rains roll in the lake will fill up and life will boom. Besides birds, some of the wildlife that can be found at Creamer's Field include predaceous diving beetles, wood frogs, and an occasional moose.
Once one has traversed what is available at Creamer's Field, there is a connecting trail to the bird observatory on the other side of the field. Once there two more trails, chickadee loop and wanderers trail, are available. While walking the connecting trail to the bird observatory I noticed some pretty bright berries hanging. Since I'm unfamiliar with what they were, they remained there. Later I was informed that they were cranberries. Apparently it is not uncommon for some of them to survive the winter.
Given the vast amount of outdoor activities there are here in Alaska, in place of Starbucks, there is an outdoor store on every corner. That is a small exaggeration, but there are a lot. Closest to my current residence is Beaver Sports. So far every time I've been there has turned into at least a one hour event. This is because the staff there is so helpful. My first trip there at least half an hour was spent talking about sleeping bags adequate for my outings and the best viewing places and times to see the northern lights. After that at least another hour in the canoe building discussing rafting practices and the varying vessels.
My pack is a few straps short to carry my gear so I decided to go over and buy some webbing straps with buckles. Although they carry these they were not long enough for my needs. When I inquired if there was any by the foot at the climbing department he said no but provided me another solution. There is a high tensile strength tubular webbing which the employee said would work. It is cut with heat so the ends are melded together which prevents fraying later. Apparently one of their staff members came up with the idea to use the edge of the heated cutter to meld an end without cutting. This allows them to fold the webbing through a buckle and meld it into a loop. They tested the meld in-house with a 200lb employee they strapped to a climbing harness that is hung from the roof of the store. Considering I only need it to keep a mat and tent in place that was good enough for me.
It also turned out the employee was a photographer. I asked what he used to carry an SLR with lenses on an extended hike and that was the begining of another one hour conversation. Then gentleman checked that all of the customers were attended to then went out to his car and returned with a Tamrac Velocity series bag. He proceeded to show me how he straps it to his chest so he can carry a pack and then secures it to the pack with carabiners and webbing. This distributes the weight and allows him to take off one pack without having to remove the other as he would need to if he were using the included strap. After that he showed me how he waterproofs the interior by lining the pack with a Sea Line Storm Sack. To top it off he carries a second lens and protects it by putting it into an insulated neoprene water bottle carrier. GENIUS!! These were all great ideas and the time and depth he put into it all was above and beyond his job description I'm sure. He even gave me his personal business card in case I had any more questions related to photography or hiking with the camera equipment. It's been my experience that most people here are willing to pass on what they know be it about cameras, hiking, hunting, or just general living in the state.
Recently I had the opportunity to spend a day at Creamer's Field, which is about two miles from where I'm staying in Fairbanks. Many of the migratory birds which stop there, including geese and swans, have arrived. Their website, linked above, keeps a count of the birds currently residing there. There is already plenty of documentation explaining the story of the viewing grounds so I will not get into that here. If you'd like to read more about it's history you can check this wiki page.
Most of the trails here range from less than a mile to close to two miles. It takes less than a day to walk them all should you choose to do so. Things are still in that transitional period between winter and spring where the colors aren't there yet and everything is muddy from the melting snow. According to the brochure this is when the wetlands and lakes there are created. Permafrost prevents the earth from absorbing all of the water creating these bodies of water. As the rains roll in the lake will fill up and life will boom. Besides birds, some of the wildlife that can be found at Creamer's Field include predaceous diving beetles, wood frogs, and an occasional moose.
Once one has traversed what is available at Creamer's Field, there is a connecting trail to the bird observatory on the other side of the field. Once there two more trails, chickadee loop and wanderers trail, are available. While walking the connecting trail to the bird observatory I noticed some pretty bright berries hanging. Since I'm unfamiliar with what they were, they remained there. Later I was informed that they were cranberries. Apparently it is not uncommon for some of them to survive the winter.
Given the vast amount of outdoor activities there are here in Alaska, in place of Starbucks, there is an outdoor store on every corner. That is a small exaggeration, but there are a lot. Closest to my current residence is Beaver Sports. So far every time I've been there has turned into at least a one hour event. This is because the staff there is so helpful. My first trip there at least half an hour was spent talking about sleeping bags adequate for my outings and the best viewing places and times to see the northern lights. After that at least another hour in the canoe building discussing rafting practices and the varying vessels.
My pack is a few straps short to carry my gear so I decided to go over and buy some webbing straps with buckles. Although they carry these they were not long enough for my needs. When I inquired if there was any by the foot at the climbing department he said no but provided me another solution. There is a high tensile strength tubular webbing which the employee said would work. It is cut with heat so the ends are melded together which prevents fraying later. Apparently one of their staff members came up with the idea to use the edge of the heated cutter to meld an end without cutting. This allows them to fold the webbing through a buckle and meld it into a loop. They tested the meld in-house with a 200lb employee they strapped to a climbing harness that is hung from the roof of the store. Considering I only need it to keep a mat and tent in place that was good enough for me.
It also turned out the employee was a photographer. I asked what he used to carry an SLR with lenses on an extended hike and that was the begining of another one hour conversation. Then gentleman checked that all of the customers were attended to then went out to his car and returned with a Tamrac Velocity series bag. He proceeded to show me how he straps it to his chest so he can carry a pack and then secures it to the pack with carabiners and webbing. This distributes the weight and allows him to take off one pack without having to remove the other as he would need to if he were using the included strap. After that he showed me how he waterproofs the interior by lining the pack with a Sea Line Storm Sack. To top it off he carries a second lens and protects it by putting it into an insulated neoprene water bottle carrier. GENIUS!! These were all great ideas and the time and depth he put into it all was above and beyond his job description I'm sure. He even gave me his personal business card in case I had any more questions related to photography or hiking with the camera equipment. It's been my experience that most people here are willing to pass on what they know be it about cameras, hiking, hunting, or just general living in the state.
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Chasing the Sun
Well my DOT physical was passed and I'm on the move. Before leaving North Dakota I decided to check out the Red River. These pictures should have been posted then, but no hot spots were present. There were two informational posts one of which explains what the solitary column parting the river is. It's an interesting read of over engineering.
A few hours later and I was waiting in line to cross the Canadian border into Manitoba. Registering my firearm was simple. One form, $25, and a few questions later I was driving again. Apparently Manitoba was hit by the same storms that hit the upper east coast of the U.S.. Waters had risen to within a foot of the highway's shoulder. Everything along the road was a muddy icy mess.
My first night in below zero temperatures was actually pretty plesant. Such cold temperatures finally provided me the chance to try out my -30 sleeping bag by The Backside. It's hard to find this bag, but if you can get your hands on it it's worth it. Mine was purchased at Gander Mountain for about $60 on sale. It's a mummy bag with a hood illiminating the cold head issue I was having with my rectangular bag. I'm a pretty large guy and I fit in it with no problem. Granted there wasn't much arm space for me so I had to lay in true mummy fashion with my hands on my chest, but this didn't keep me from being comfortable. So far I can vouche that it withstands up to -1 degree Celcius. Tonight I'll test it at -4 and let everyone know how that goes.
As my trip progressed Northwest the small patches of snow slowly grew into a solid white blanket. Even approaching mid April these parts aren't showing many signs of spring. Flurries were forcasted in some parts of Canada including temperatures as low as -13 Celsius. At one point earlier today I made the mistake of using my windsheild washer fluid. It froze in seconds. Needless to say I now own an ice scrapper again. Once I got out of the mud and into some snow covered terrain, things began to look a lot nicer. Too bad nothings started to bloom here yet. There must be some amazing colors on the rolling hills and distant mountains I've passed later in the season.
Currently I'm in Edmunton, which is the halfway point of traversing Canada for me. If things go well I should be in the Yukon if not Alaska sometime tomorrow. It sounds like the roads are still pretty rough there though. If it's too bad I'll have to hold short. My poor truck took a beating today and these aren't even large mountains. Most of the roads in Canada have been two lanes up until about Saskatoon. Every time a truck drove by in the opposite direction it would shake the crap out of my little car. At one point a truck with an oversized load knocked my CB antenna off the cab with the turbulence. Luckily the radio kept the antenna attached. I held on to the cable until I found a safe part of the emergency lane to pull over. There was ice on portions of the emergency lane so caution was required. Once I was able to pull over I saw that the antenna was almost at the end of the camper shell.
Well it's off to bed. Tomorrow will be the most challenging portion of the entire trip. My driving schedule is long. I'm still on EST and the sun stays up long since my direction of travel is east. There is still one more hour to gain.
A few hours later and I was waiting in line to cross the Canadian border into Manitoba. Registering my firearm was simple. One form, $25, and a few questions later I was driving again. Apparently Manitoba was hit by the same storms that hit the upper east coast of the U.S.. Waters had risen to within a foot of the highway's shoulder. Everything along the road was a muddy icy mess.
My first night in below zero temperatures was actually pretty plesant. Such cold temperatures finally provided me the chance to try out my -30 sleeping bag by The Backside. It's hard to find this bag, but if you can get your hands on it it's worth it. Mine was purchased at Gander Mountain for about $60 on sale. It's a mummy bag with a hood illiminating the cold head issue I was having with my rectangular bag. I'm a pretty large guy and I fit in it with no problem. Granted there wasn't much arm space for me so I had to lay in true mummy fashion with my hands on my chest, but this didn't keep me from being comfortable. So far I can vouche that it withstands up to -1 degree Celcius. Tonight I'll test it at -4 and let everyone know how that goes.
As my trip progressed Northwest the small patches of snow slowly grew into a solid white blanket. Even approaching mid April these parts aren't showing many signs of spring. Flurries were forcasted in some parts of Canada including temperatures as low as -13 Celsius. At one point earlier today I made the mistake of using my windsheild washer fluid. It froze in seconds. Needless to say I now own an ice scrapper again. Once I got out of the mud and into some snow covered terrain, things began to look a lot nicer. Too bad nothings started to bloom here yet. There must be some amazing colors on the rolling hills and distant mountains I've passed later in the season.
Currently I'm in Edmunton, which is the halfway point of traversing Canada for me. If things go well I should be in the Yukon if not Alaska sometime tomorrow. It sounds like the roads are still pretty rough there though. If it's too bad I'll have to hold short. My poor truck took a beating today and these aren't even large mountains. Most of the roads in Canada have been two lanes up until about Saskatoon. Every time a truck drove by in the opposite direction it would shake the crap out of my little car. At one point a truck with an oversized load knocked my CB antenna off the cab with the turbulence. Luckily the radio kept the antenna attached. I held on to the cable until I found a safe part of the emergency lane to pull over. There was ice on portions of the emergency lane so caution was required. Once I was able to pull over I saw that the antenna was almost at the end of the camper shell.
Well it's off to bed. Tomorrow will be the most challenging portion of the entire trip. My driving schedule is long. I'm still on EST and the sun stays up long since my direction of travel is east. There is still one more hour to gain.
Friday, April 9, 2010
Last update from ND.
For better or for worse this will be my last day in ND. If I pass the physical I'm going for broke and heading towards AK. If not, it's back to FL. The physical should be fine and so long as this job in Fairbanks works out it should be mission accomplished. Otherwise I must sell off what I can and take a flight back. Wish me luck, this is nerve wrecking.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Alaska trip update.
It's been a bit since my last post, but that's because I've been in a holding pattern of sorts. When I woke up this morning, aside from having ice on the windows, my truck was completely dead. I was able to get a jump, but it took forever to to charge. There's an O'Reilly's Auto Parts near where I was staying so I got the battery tested. Sure enough it was bad so I ate further into my funds and got a new one with better cold weather starting. Temperatures dropped to 27 last night which was a little too cold for my bag. Fairbanks will not be any better with a low hitting 11 in the evening.
My best bet for work here and in Alaska is to go back to driving. Unfortunately my DOT physical card is expired. No place was able to take me same day to complete this. To top it all off I know it's time for new glasses so I may fail the vision portion of the exam. An eye appointment was canceled at a Walmart optomitrist where I checked availability. Luckily I passed my exam and got a prescription for glasses as soon as I can afford them. On Friday I have an appointment for the rest of the exams. In the mean time I've tried to be productive and have applied at various places ranging from Arby's to a fiberglass shop that makes blades for windmills. Below you'll find a picture of one of these blades. All the while I've been in contact with a company in Fairbanks who is interested in employing me. Assuming I pass my physical tomorrow, I will cross into Canada and start trucking towards Fairbanks. All this potential employer has left to do is my background screening which should be no problem since my record is clean.
My best bet for work here and in Alaska is to go back to driving. Unfortunately my DOT physical card is expired. No place was able to take me same day to complete this. To top it all off I know it's time for new glasses so I may fail the vision portion of the exam. An eye appointment was canceled at a Walmart optomitrist where I checked availability. Luckily I passed my exam and got a prescription for glasses as soon as I can afford them. On Friday I have an appointment for the rest of the exams. In the mean time I've tried to be productive and have applied at various places ranging from Arby's to a fiberglass shop that makes blades for windmills. Below you'll find a picture of one of these blades. All the while I've been in contact with a company in Fairbanks who is interested in employing me. Assuming I pass my physical tomorrow, I will cross into Canada and start trucking towards Fairbanks. All this potential employer has left to do is my background screening which should be no problem since my record is clean.
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
In the Inn.
I've decided to relax some and splurged on a hotel. I'm staying at a Budget Inn that looks unique compared to the others I've seen . When I arrived I noticed a few guys working on some wood outside. Walking up to the reception desk I observed it was unattended. One of the workers that was noticed outside walks in with a toolbelt on and asks "Can I help you?". "I'd like to know rates and if there are any vacancies." I replied expecting him to go find the attendant. To my surprise he walks behind the counter, fires up the computer and gives me the required information. It's a pretty neat Inn with two computers in the lobby for guests to use, free wi-fi, and laundry. There are daily, weekly, and soon to be monthly rates for the rooms. Surprisingly the monthly rate is reasonable. Given that the rooms are furnished and contain a small fridge, microwave, and TV this would be a good place to live should I remain in Grand Forks. I let him know that I may be staying one more day and he gave me his business card so that a room could be reserved once I knew. On it was the name of his PC repair and sales business. It's a rare occurance to run into a hotel attendant that handles most aspects of the business. In my opinion that is a great way to run any job. It keeps management in touch with the way things really work.
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